Ausklang

For my last full day in Sydney, I had planned something special: attending a concert with Richard Strauss’ Alpensinfonie, preceded by a modern piece and two choral-orchestral works by Brahms (Schicksalslied, Gesang der Parzen), and performed by the Sydney Symphony Orchestra. After weeks of changeable weather, Sydney had put on a festive blue sky to bid me farewell. And I had also prepared a special route to the concert hall inside the opera house. From my usual swimming pool, I walked through the hipster neighborhood of Glebe to the Light Rail, which brought me to Darling Harbour. Paul Griffiths, head of the Sydney group I was visiting, aptly described it as “the place where urban developers have finally succeeded at destroying the natural beauty of Sydney Harbour”. The verdict is justified: there is a lot of commercial attire in this bay, and rather than integrating the water naturally into an urban landscape (or the urban landscape into the shapes of the way), the is a simple and bland concrete footwalk spotted with all sorts of temptations of modern life (cafes, bars, snacks, multiplex cinemas).

Fortunately, Darling Harbour also has a ferry stop: from there, you can get to Circular Quay (=the absolute centre with the Opera House) in about 25 minutes, cruising several parts of the Inner Harbour, west of the famous bridge. There are not many tourists who know about this route, and the ferry lacks the frenzy of the route to Manly or other popular destinations. The ride brings you to less well-known, but equally beautiful and less overcrowded parts of Sydney Harbour, and the views are just amazing.

 

Equally, the arrival at Circular Quay is overwhelming: first, the majestic bows of the Harbour Bridge open up above you, then, you float by the Opera house and the lively bars up to the pier.

The sun has set, leaving behind a deep-blue sky, the beauty of which renders me speechless and also incredibly sad to leave. I meet my colleague Stefan and his wife Vera and we enjoy the remaining time before the concert at the opera bar with its wonderful outside terrace.

Then we take our seats. While I usually avoid ranting about music in this blog, I will make an exception this time. On this last night in Sydney, it is hard to think of a better program than the Alpensinfonie. It is the description of a journey which starts in deep night, continues in the friendly mood of a sunny morning, and makes it up to the summit. Contemplative moments and a fearful thunderstorm ensue. With descent accomplished and the sun setting behind the mountains, time suddenly comes to a halt and the music adopts a serene, conciliatory tone, before dying away in a sombre mumbling. Night has fallen again. But the memories of the wonders of the journey persist. As you may find out yourself below.